Monday, January 26, 2009

Paris: John Galliano - fall 2009

From Men's John Galliano - fall 2009

Though there were several thousand votives burning and Slumdog Millionaire was playing on the soundtrack, it was freezing in John Galliano's show venue. And the wintry chill penetrated his collection. From Scott Barnhill's entrance in a tricorn, with powdered wig and bruised eyes, the scene was set for the usual pell-mell historicism. But it didn't quite engage, possibly because Galliano's cast of characters was a little frosty. Dead-eyed highwaymen in their britches and buccaneer boots were followed by a crew of piratical zombies who also looked to have shuffled off this mortal coil. Next came a posse of Pans, their satyrdom curtailed by the subzero temps, and a coven of black-clad Pilgrim Fathers—not a fun bunch at the best of times, even if this lot were wearing shirts as sheer as lingerie.

There was still enjoyment to be had, particularly when—during the underwear promo that has become the wingiest part of a Galliano show—the designer paraded a high-court judge in wig, undies, shoes, socks, and garters. But maybe it was color that was missing from the show, and that may very well have been Galliano's comment on a world gone wrong.

— Tim Blanks

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